Now, I do hope no one was waiting with baited breath for a post yesterday ….. I say that because I had got into a routine of writing each night , as both Kathleen and I had of climbing mountains each day – and suddenly not doing so feels very strange ( this morning even the DB looked at his phone out of habit to see where we had got to ….” Oh of course “ he said “ you’re here and not there!”)

Well we are now both back , safely ensconced I our own homes ! When I last left you, we’d been enjoying the festivities in Muxia before partaking of our delicious last lunch of the trip – Gambas a da Lolo and Zamoriñas to start …

These were followed by a wholesome salad and a thin T- bone steak (which spilled over the side of the plate) that sadly stumped even yours truly! Oh and I forgot, all washed down with …. you’ve guessed it, a bottle of delicious Albariño! A fitting end to a wonderful Camino !

Well we had an early start the next day – so off to bed for an early night we’re we! Early night maybe ….. but sleep evaded us . Of course, you’ll say … with a journey ahead, too much excitement etc etc. No, Dear Reader , not at all …I alluded earlier to the partying abilities of the Spanish, but maybe I omitted to tell you of their love of fireworks. No matter if it’s the middle of the day ( as in the Fallas festival in Valencia when the noise is more important – and for half an hour at 2 pm each day for a week the “ mascaletas” let rip) , or the middle of the night (12.30 to be precise) as in Muxia on Saturday night … Sunday morning of course!……when something akin to the “ Battle of the Somme” played out about 5 minutes walk from our room!!!! You would think that then peace would reign, the fireworks signifying the end of partying for that evening/ morning! Don’t be silly – of course not – the music boomed from the stage with as much vigour as before .

So when we arose at 6.15 , what did we hear? Why, music of course and the sound of partygoers silently communicating their delight and happiness – they thought they were communicating silently, in reality on the decibel scale their chatter was akin to a rock concert.!

So bleary eyed we go outside the hotel to wait for our taxi taking us at 7am to the airport – if we were hoping for the still darkness of the early morning , we were out of luck ! They were all on the way home – peace and quiet – nowhere to be found! The poor driver had to manoeuvre the car through the narrow streets of Muxia, endeavouring to avoid the occasional reveller who considered themselves infallible and as having priority on the road! According to the driver, the Fiesta de Muxia is famous nationally – and further afield – so no wonder there were so many people packed into that lovely little coastal town!

So we were off to the airport – a journey of 1 hour and 10 minutes – and a route that traversed all the mountains and countryside that had taken us 7 days to cross ……. are we mad? Not at all ……..we wouldn’t change a thing !

On arrival at the airport , we had to check in my case ( if you remember booked, because the airline charged “How much?” to transport our walking poles) After the usual questions such “ Did you pack the case yourself? Are you carrying anything for anyone else? ( at this point I nearly said yes but decided against it lest it open a whole load of security questions) So I just told the nice lady that the only reason I was checking in a cabin bag was to bring my walking poles with me “ Oh” said she “ you can transport them free of charge from here” ……What!!! “ You can carry your poles for free but it is only from Santiago Airport”

Dear Reader, what would you say? Too late for us, but if any of you intend to follow in our footsteps, you heard it from me first ! What a pity the website of our airline didn’t inform us of that – oh, of course I paid to put my cabin bag in the hold on the return journey , so that means they gained financially from my ignorance ….. there you go!

Anyway at least the plane was on time , so all aboard …… and we are sitting in the first row behind the middle of the plane emergency exits. Good ….. and I’m already calculating how quickly I can get round to them …. Now I’m not OCD but I do take things seriously when I’m going to be in a tin can ( in effect) approximately 6 miles above earth. So I’m watching the people sitting in the seats by the emergency exits . A stewardess talked to them all , explained what was required and checked they were all happy to assist the cabin crew in case of an evacuation. Everyone nods …. then one has to be told to put her oversized handbag and coat in the overhead locker . Not looking good, think I – at least there are others.

Oh dear ….. now for the safety briefing …. Clearly we are told to remove headphones and listen and observe the briefing. So, we have one of our potential life savers with headphones clamped over his ears ….. now I’m pretty sure I know how to fasten my safety belt but I still watch the demonstration….. and yes the oxygen mask automatically falls with a lack of cabin pressure .Emergency exits are clearly marked but the life jacket ……..ha, where is it ? Above you or under your seat? If you listen to the briefing you know but one of the people we were relying on to get us out in case of emergency had no idea – still with earphones clamped on watching his phone intently . Well at least we knew , and I knew how to fasten it , and where the whistle and light to attract attention were – though it has always puzzled me that if a plane goes down, my little life jacket light and whistle are going to play any role in attracting attention! Hey ho!

Well I’m pleased to say we landed …. safely of course ….but the plane must have slowed and then stopped only because all the passengers applied the brakes …..

Oh dear , I am nowhere near finishing what I had to say ….. too much of a good thing….. so please forgive me , I bid you all goodnight , tomorrow I’ll continue our journey home but will end with the sign on our long awaited car park transfer bus …..

OUT OF SERVICE …….😉😉😉

Up and raring to go – well if you remember we have already walked the first 2 km 🙈 I’m lost for words really – ok, ok not normally associated with yours truly – but today has been very special, the best walk despite “ that” climb . That climb was a walk in the park – yes really it was – the miles just passed through the most beautiful countryside ….

We can post as many photos as we like on this blog – but what we can never do is bring you the sensual side of this . The eucalyptus forests continued all the way – and the smell is so beautiful, almost like walking with a jar of Vicks under your nose, but sweeter. The pine intermingled with the eucalyptus only serves to enhance the aroma. Then we have passed fields with fennel and what smells like the curry plant . This morning a lady was cutting the weeds with her scythe, and after we passed the smell of freshly chopped mint followed us up the hill. The salty smell of the sea is unmistakable but has been ever present on this last lap- last night I thought it was really windy because of the noise . The night couldn’t have been more still – the sound was the sound of the waves arriving on the shore and nearby rocks . These beautiful smells of course interspersed with those of the typical farmyard …..whether cow, horse or chicken ( in fairness we haven’t seen any pigs, and sheep tend not to cause too much of a whiff !!) All in all though every smell enhanced our journey today making it the best ever 🥰

So we were heading for Muxia – the end of a Camino from Santiago de Compostella for some . We had been advised to do the Camino Finisterre but then travel up the coast to Muxia which we have absolutely no regrets about . However I am now going to take you back to the film “The Way” – in remembrance of Alistair, we wanted to go to Finisterre and to follow in the footsteps of the group of friends ( as with many on the Camino you make friends as you go) who had decided when they arrived in Santiago after their pilgrimage from France , to go on to the coast . Now let me explain – timing in films bears no relationship to reality ! After Kathleen and I had completed our last Camino , I said to her “ We’ve got the afternoon free, let’s just walk to the coast.” Then I discovered that at best it would take at least 3 days – and as you now know it has taken us a hard 7 days …. More fool us thinking Michael Sheen and Co did what we did !!!!

Then another whoopsy- Kathleen and I went to Cape Finisterre and the Lighthouse there, and then down onto the rocks as they did in the film – and then my Dearly Beloved informed us they didn’t go to Finisterre at all, they went to Muxia, sending us photos from the end of the film to prove it …

So we had to find the church and we had to go to the rocks …..,,

Apologies should possibly have given a mascara warning there ….but onwards and yes, upwards 🥴🥴🥴 we went, leaving the rocks behind because in Muxia it is Fiesta time . Now you may not this but the Spanish grab any excuse to party and they know how to party!!🎉🎉 or more like 🍷🍷🍷🍶🍶🍶🍾🍾🍾🍻🍻🍻

Needless to say Dear Reader , Kathleen and I joined in , beer in hand dancing with the rest of them. What a fitting tribute to Alistair, who would have been the first on the dance floor – because he loved that sort of music, but then what am I saying, he was there with us , he has been, every step of The Way, Our Way.

So after 79 miles and more or less 174,051 steps we have completed our journey. Thank you for supporting us by reading this each day – we both feel so loved and supported by our families and friends whose encouragement has kept us going . A special mention for the DB who has watched every step we’ve taken ( and corrected us when we needed help) which has made us feel safe and secure along the way – thank you, you are a star ⭐️

The blog will continue we’ve got to get home yet and who knows what might happen between now and then !!!

This blog is dedicated to Alistair a most wonderful human being, soul mate , Dad , Pops and friend to so many . Thank you for inspiring me to take on the challenges of the Camino that I so wanted to try , and thank you for encouraging my special friend, your life partner, to do it with me .

So we left Finisterre behind this morning, along with plenty of my childhood memories . Now, many of you will not remember the BBC light service – but as a small child I would be sat down at a quarter to two every week day, to listen to the radio and “ Listen with Mother” ( forgive me, but I don’t remember if she listened with me or not – it’s hardly relevant anyway!) Then just before two o’clock the Shipping Forecast came on – I never quite understood why we would be listening to the shipping forecast – we didn’t have a boat and lived about as far from the sea as was possible in the UK . After that it was Woman’s Hour when I was dispatched upstairs ( whether I was tired or not ) to leave my mother in peace to listen to her programme. None of that is really relevant- other than I’m setting the scene as to why Finisterre figured in my childhood ! I remember the words “ North Utsire blah di blah, South Utsire blah di blah, Finisterre blah di blah and other words like Cromarty, Dogger, German Bight, Biscay ….. etc etc! I didn’t understand what was being said but I remember the names to this day !

Unfortunately, Finisterre no longer figures in our Shipping Forecast as I have just discovered… since 2002 when the Spanish complained it was confusing their forecast, so it is now known as Fitzroy! Another useless piece of information for you !

More or less as soon as we left Finisterre , we started to climb . There were we thinking “ great, only 8.4 miles – as Kathleen would say – a walk in the park !” Well, on the flat maybe, but up and down mountains it feels double ! And not a bar, cafe or even bench to sit on anywhere ! Even my inner Julie Andrew’s failed to inspire …..

The scenery has been outstanding – oh, and it was sunny today – the sun hats had their first airing ! We don’t want to be ungrateful for such beautiful weather, but really we prefer to walk in the cooler ( and dare I say, damper ) weather – not pouring rain obviously , just a little cool, and damp if it has to be !

We have met some lovely people on this Camino – it is said there are 90% less people on this particular route, than on other more popular routes. However we have met some , shall we say , slightly eccentric folk too. Like the 58 year old man who had been walking different Caminos for the past three years – he started before Covid hit, and because you were not allowed out to even exercise in Spain during the pandemic, he walked at night with a head torch . Apparently, he had been stopped in the day on several occasions by the Guardia Civil ! Ah, well I suppose it shows that some folk escape the Holy Company of Souls on the moors between Olveiroa and Finisterre !

Then we met this pair ! We were of course, attracted to the dog but got talking to his owner – and they had been walking from Eastern Europe for the past 17 months ! Both are now in a difficult position as formal documents have expired ! Both Kathleen and I felt sorry for him – but in reality , you cannot just up sticks and wander, without careful consideration of your legal status in the place you end up in – so a bit like our Mr A at Stanstead Airport, we had to toughen up and agree, it was his responsibility and his predicament was of his own making !

We couldn’t resist this photo – his wife and dog were just in front – but here is a real example of good old fashioned farming !

Now after four hours with no stops other than to have a drink of water- we were desperate to sit down , and as coffee time had long gone , have a beer! Finally we reached this village and the first thing we saw was a bar – so in we went , and 2 beers and a large bottle of water later we set off to find Lires , our stop for the night.

Now what I’m going to tell you next may surprise you ( it may not!) but in our defence ( you can see where this is going) , firstly, we were looking for a village by the sea . Where we found ourselves, was nowhere near the sea. Secondly, it is very difficult to know through signage , which village you are in . Thirdly, nobody suck a great big arrow above our heads , pointing out “ You are here!!”

So we did what we’ve done all along – followed the signs!!! and kept on following them . Bearing in mind we’d been on the road for nearly five hours – with ( in our minds) no sign of our destination – and ploughing half way up yet another hill, I receive a message from the DB ….

– and indeed Dear Reader , we had !!!

Now , praise where praise is due , if the DB hadn’t been following my pedometer app and alerted us , eventually I think we might both have sat rocking in the middle of the road in distress and may have still been there now! Now though of course, the DB is vying for the post of Chief Trusted Navigator – unfortunately though the TN on the ground here remains in post but we do at least feel safe in the knowledge that we are being watched over from afar ( in fairness all we have to do tomorrow is follow the signs – they all lead to Muxia)

The TN has two roles anyway because she is also my PTP ( personal trusted podiatrist) and after five days of mountaineering she has had to tend to the toes of one foot – unfortunately a new pair of walking boots are required , but this pair at least will see me home !!!

So tomorrow is our last day ……and yes, you’ve guessed it . They’ve saved the best till last!!!!!

Good night Dear Reader! I leave you with following inspirational quote from our guide book about tomorrow’s walk ….

Regret for the things we did can be tempered by time . It is regret for the things that we did not do that is inconsolable .

I considered changing this title or whether to even write today ….. but decided to go ahead because all in all it has been a very emotional day.

First and foremost I want to say “God bless our Queen” May she rest in peace with her beloved Philip, reunited once more .

Words cannot express how we feel here ….. she was our Queen and we have never known any other true leader. She gave her life to serve us all and we pay tribute to that. One amazing lady remembered for so many things over so many years – but I’d like to think her tea with Paddington bear represented the true Queen best .

Your Majesty, we salute you and we will forever remember you with fondness, reverence and love ❤️

I make no apologies for this – it had to be said – it comes from my heart as do all my blogs .

So to our Camino …. today we started with … you’ve guessed it …. Rain ( oh I forgot to tell you the blessing yesterday was that it didn’t rain at all 👏👏👏👏) We set off from Cee ( pronounced Thee but the Th is soft as in thick – just so you know for future reference)

Needless to say before long we met a hill ( no, mountain ) and it was a climb …I knew that before I got anywhere near it !

Despite these ups and yes, then downs , today felt very different. I couldn’t tell you why- perhaps after four days of so many hard ups and downs, we had become accustomed to this way of life . Or maybe we knew we could only go so far – unless we wished to swim of course! Regardless our journey today felt easier . We arrived in Finisterre in good time, had our customary coffee on arrival to the town and then a beer as we always have done , but then this was no ordinary day, no ordinary journey for Kathleen and I .

Let me give you a brief history of our Camino journey , and how it all started … and I will also give you warning that as this is hard for me to write without shedding tears , it may well be hard for you to read.

The Camino Frances – a pilgrimage from St Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago de Compostella with extensions to Finisterre or Muxia (or both in our case !!) – had somehow got into my blood through various very different sources and was something I felt I would like to do . At that point in time I had no idea how or when I would do it , but felt sure it was something I was destined to do.

Then we lost a very dear friend, Alistair,to prostate cancer , who was ( and still is) the soul mate and life partner of my special friend,Kathleen. At this point , as a friend you feel completely helpless so I had to do something practical and I knew I would walk part of the Camino in his memory and raise money for cancer research . When I broached this with Kathleen , completely unbeknown to me, she knew about the Camino having watched The Way ( a beautiful film with Michael Sheen – please watch if you haven’t seen it already) with Alistair . It was the last film they watched together and Alistair foresaw that Kathleen would walk the Camino ( his only comment was “ please don’t stay in hostels , stay in hotels” ..keep safe)

So Dear Reader , the rest is history … following our beers , we realised that although we were in Finisterre town , we hadn’t finished our Camino . So after 7.8 miles walking , we agreed to head off to the end of the Camino and the end of the Earth – and after what could have been considered a fairly gruelling 2 mile climb, though looking back was, and I quote “ A walk in the park”, we reached the end ….

Then we saw the lighthouse and went just that little bit further ….

All in all Dear Reader – a day full of emotion , yet strangely, a completely fulfilling day . I make no apology for the nature of this blog – you come with us on this journey, and like us with the mountains we have climbed, you have to follow our ups and downs .

Tomorrow is another day … and another blog which I can assure you will be different again ! Probably a hill or two but hey we can do that ….

So, we wish you a good and peaceful night – which will be more than we have ! It’s Fiesta in Finisterre and we ( with the sea view) look out onto the port with a fair, bouncy castle and live band !!! Bring it on !!!

Well here we are – finally, we meet the Atlantic Ocean in the small town of Cee !

However , to reach the sea from this point we had to descend some treacherous paths – do you recall the red warning explanation mark on the map ? Well it was well placed- the descent was difficult and I don’t mind telling you it took its toll on both of us. Climbing hills and mountains – bring them on now , but of course what goes up must come down , and coming down is very hard !

We’ve walked miles on tracks like these today and for the last 15 km – no habitation whatsoever – accompanied only by the occasional pilgrim overtaking us – yes infuriating, but we admit they are younger and fitter than us . It is “ hard walking” on this Camino – the TN keeps asking me where I got the idea this Camino was flat and easy . In truth Dear Reader, I have absolutely no idea – cloud cuckoo land I suspect, because it is in reality, the other end of the scale!!! Mind you she keeps telling me “It’ll be a walk in the park. you’ll see !” Well when I get back, I’m going to visit her park, because nothing I have done so far this week resembles any walk I’ve ever done in a park near me!!!”

Now we set off this morning with the fear of God upon us ….no Dear Reader I’m not being dramatic ….

On the first part of today’s walk we crossed about 12 km of moorland which has historically been associated with the ( mythical… ok ok ) Vakner – said to be “ a terrifying creature, man like, of a malignant nature, that lives like a troglodyte in the deepest and densest part of the forest.”

It is said this creature was used by the early Church to discourage the practise of pagan rites – and the creature was likely based on a bear or wild boar that roamed the land . Never mind discouraging the practise of pagan rites – it nearly discouraged us!!! You will be reassured to know we met neither a Vakner, nor a wild boar or a bear today!!!

All I can say is that we were determined not to be out anywhere in the dark – nor have we been …. we’re tucked up in bed by nine o’clock !!!!

Back to reality Jane , back to reality ! Oh and a mascara warning for anyone wearing it ….

We found this letter written next to one of the signs directing us all on our way …. and I will do my best to translate it for you …..

For Gaelle

I think that people are stupid to let the people they love go, and I have done it because I left the most pure love that I ever found . Always follow your dreams and take everything you deserve little Dora . I know destiny will make us meet one last time , to see again your eyes waiting, I will never stop loving you , for ever and always ..Ale 03.08.22

I’ll give you a minute …. don’t say I didn’t warn you ….. it makes me feel very wobbly ….. but the emotion on this Camino, like all the others is over powering sometimes and this letter illustrates that perfectly I think 💙

So tomorrow is yet another day on this wonderful Camino – ok not quite what I was calling it earlier – but time is a healer …. and talking of time, it’s time for a bottle of our favourite fermented grape juice and something to eat …, keep up, we’re ready for our Albariño ….. cheers everyone 🥂🥂

Well, here we are safe and sound in Olveiroa

– we’ve got wetter today after 6.3 miles than we have on the two previous days – and thinking today would be a walk in a park ….well it wasn’t . There are loads of mountains ( my TN tells me they are definitely NOT hills !) – ah, I apologise , you’ll be thinking who or what is my TN . This would be my special friend Kathleen, my Trusty Navigator ! Have we got lost …. no we haven’t… she sees all the signs ( for those of you who wear glasses, unless you are fortunate enough to have windscreen wipers on your spectacles, rain clouds your vision 🥴) and we have had plenty of that !

The scenery is different today although we still carry the beautiful smell of eucalyptus with us everywhere we go ….

Now I know what you’re thinking …. “ what’s all this got to do with two or even three blokes ?” Well to put you out of your misery, – nothing!!! We just thought you’d like to know what we’ve been up to today – but we meet a lot of people whilst walking, everyone doing it for their own reasons , and since we left Sheffield two have made an impression on us and we’re old enough to be their mothers !

The first I am going to call “ the bloke who thinks he’s infallable” – Mr A .

Now we met him at the car park at Stanstead Airport. Kathleen and I were stood at the car park bus stop waiting to be taken to the terminal when Mr A appears , rushing across the road . “ When’s the next bus “ he asks. “ I’ve been stood for 30 minutes at the wrong bus stop in the wrong car park and my flight goes in 40 minutes”

No need to ask what Kathleen and I thought – so we asked him where he was going . “Sardinia” was the reply “ to do some photography” Well, that was fairly obvious as he had a technical looking tripod , and what was clearly a camera bag along with his cabin baggage . “ Well” we suggested “ perhaps you should look at rebooking your flight ?” His reply “ There’s only one flight every Saturday”

Now , you’ll also know what I tried to tell him ( though in truth he wasn’t taking anything we said in) ……, you’ve got it , next time practise the 6 P’s – his reply “ oh I know , I’m always like this , this isn’t the first time , at aged 39 you’d think I’d have learnt”

Things weren’t looking good for him – still no bus ( two drop off buses but no pick up ) – then he elaborated to tell us he’d been further delayed because he turned up to the mid-stay carpark and realised it would cost him £30 / day for the week ie £210. So he went on line whilst outside the car park to book a week’s parking for £130 , but had difficulty getting his card accepted so further delay! Once accepted he was in but clearly didn’t follow the signs to the designated parking , dumped his car somewhere he shouldn’t have , and you know the rest !

The bus finally arrived to pick us up – he agitatedly spoke to the driver, but there were families with numerous suitcases , a couple with an enormous twin buggy to get settled – finally we were on our way and the last we saw of him was him running into the terminal building with by this time , 20 minutes till his plane took off , surely to leave him in the security queue behind the hoards of people who have unnecessary liquids and electrical devices in their hand luggage , coats and belts still on …..

Now the second guy, we met on Day 1 of our walk and I am going to call him “ The guy who probably thought he was infallible but realised he had to change” Mr B,a similar age to our totally disorganised Mr A.

As we were walking, Mr B covered in a red riding hood poncho ( surprisingly it was raining) caught up with us and we started walking together and talking . We asked him where he had walked from “France “ was his reply. “ Oh St Jean Pied de Port, where the Camino Frances begins” said I . “ No, the middle of France” was his reply. “ I’ve been walking for 3 months”

“ I knew my life had to change and so I started to walk and find out who I was and what I wanted from life”

“ What have you learnt?” we asked. “I have to follow my dreams” “ And they are?” “ To go to South America when I have finished this Camino”

We met him again today- we were sat in the window of the bar of our hotel ( drinking our 6€ bottle of local white wine !!) when he walked past, and seeing us, came in to chat . He is a really lovely young man , clearly settled in his mind as to where he is going in life and what he is going to do next .

The comparison between these two blokes is stark and I think for that reason they made an impact on both of us.

Life can be hectic at times – the pace of life becoming ever faster whether it be work, social or family life . It is easy to lose focus – so it is good to stop and reflect on what we really want and who we really are. The Camino offers us the opportunity to slow down, reflect and understand ourselves- and for some like Mr B, it can prove a pivotal turning point in life.

Whilst I think Mr A might well benefit from time out on the Camino, in reality, from what we witnessed, he is highly unlikely to ever consider it!

Ok you say – didn’t you say three blokes ? Indeed I did ! However we haven’t met the third – he is someone who appears to have found out who he is , and expects the world to know too……..

This is allegedly a true story – what a smart young woman ! Life isn’t about how to survive the storm , but how to dance in the rain ….. oh and Kathleen and I have had to do a lot of that recently!!!!

And so to tomorrow…….

That’s all for now folks …. Buenas noches ! Bon nuit! Goodnight!

but to try and then succeed is a wonderful thing!

Oh dear , you’ve gone all philosophical on us – what on earth has happened , I hear you wonder !

Well, we woke this morning to a decidedly sensory experience. Firstly, the lovely smell of eucalyptus- unbelievably the smell of eucalyptus ( clearly from the rain drenched trees)from our walk yesterday, clung to our rucksacks and clothes and acted as a rather delightful room freshener!

Then, the sound of torrential rain bashing on our window accompanied by the occasional clap of thunder, and finally the sight of lightening and a very wet view from our window .

We are not faint hearted nor do we give up easily , but in that rain we would have been two drowned rats within 60 seconds ! So at 7.30 am we made the ( sensible) decision to abort today’s walk . We decided we’d get a taxi to our next destination and if the weather had improved, do some walking in the afternoon

Now I’m going to digress here …. all relevant don’t worry, though you may wonder where I’m going with it initially… please be patient ! I’m taking you back to last evening and our hotel the Hostal la Mezquita. Now, Kathleen had researched (and inwardly digested such research ) our booked places of rest along our route . She had read negative comments about this hostal – and all noting that the lady in charge was grumpy and miserable. We arrived to be received by her husband but then saw his wife and at first sight, where these negative comments came from . So Kathleen challenged me to “ break” her and make her smile . So, to cut a long story short ( the DB will be sitting in his study saying “ chance’ll be a fine thing”) , I didn’t succeed last night . However this morning ……. we’d asked her ( shaking in our boots ) to fill up our water bottles . We started a discussion about the Camino and the day ahead – and I asked her what she would do if she were us ( at this point the rain had considerably subsided and almost stopped) She then gave us some brilliant advice – “ there is a restaurant in 6 km so you can walk there and if there is heavy rain , call a taxi. If not, there is a restaurant in 12 km so you can continue to there and then again call a taxi if necessary ” This advice spurred us both to at least start today’s walk ( hence the blog title )- we told her this and with a big smile , she wished us “Buen Camino” and off we set . Goal achieved! Marie Carmen, thank you , you are a very hard working lady who is clearly exhausted – we won’t forget you !

So we were on our way , not sure how far the rain would let us go ….. yes, it was uphill but totally different from yesterday . We could appreciate our surroundings – with the smell of eucalyptus all around.

However as we progressed suddenly the smell changed …….silage or pickled grass …. how come? , then suddenly we encountered said grass and the animals eating it !

There is a tale that links with that – but it is not for tonight Dear Reader, you are spared! Soon after, we reached the 6 km mark ( we didn’t see a restaurant) but we had decided to continue anyway. In places the paths were rocky and care was needed to descend ….

Before we knew it we were at the 12 km mark where we stopped for a very nice coffee ( no birds or bacon slicers in site !) – and felt elated . We both knew we would have been very disappointed not to have even tried the walk today – but accepted that as long as we had tried … we would be happy . However there was no stopping us now – we were well and truly on our way 👏👏👏👏

I should at this point mention a small celebration we had last evening – we both brought walking poles with us ( we had to pay to put a case in the hold to do so! Those of you who followed this blog in 2019 may recall the hassle we had in security with our poles in our hand luggage! To take walking poles separately according to the website of our airline would have been £35 each , each way 🙈🙈Personally, I don’t understand why they are not allowed in the cabin – although I suppose either one of us could have rushed at the cabin crew or worse, the captain, and either held them to ransom or beat them about their person, with some part of the pole …..so in the case in the hold they went )

Anyway when we got to Santiago I assembled my poles ( they had to be taken apart into 3 pieces you understand to fit in the case ) but could Kathleen assemble hers … no, is the answer. Despite trying every which way we were both truly stumped- so yesterday she walked the whole day ( yes ,up that 2.8 km nightmare of a mountain) without them – I offered to share mine but to no avail . So last night,just as we were about to go to bed and much needed sleep – she had a eureka moment and “ boom” the poles were fixed 👏👏👏👏

Despite the slopes we had to climb we have felt a great sense of achievement – I had my pedometer on and we were watching miles pass by so when we reached 13.1 miles and a very nice bar ( with loads of other pilgrims) we stopped for a beer ( as is our want !!)

We were ready to stop at this point , but it wasn’t where we were heading . When we looked at our map we realised the company we are travelling with had made a slightly humongous mistake – and the hotel we were booked in was at least another 4 miles away .

However, undeterred but stiff from our sojourn , the brave travellers decided to continue – I would like to tell you we completed those 4+ miles and gallantly arrived at Casa Jurjo on foot. Dear reader, I cannot lie to you and at 16.3 miles we realised that if we continued we wouldn’t be able to get out of bed in the morning. So we called the delightful owner of the hotel and he came and collected us – and we are safely ensconced for the night ! Needless to say, an email is wending it’s way to our your operator with a few choice comments !

So tomorrow as we have over-walked today, we have a very easy day – a 5 km walk from A Picota to Olveiroa- have no fear , still have plenty to write about ! And you know us, anything can happen !

According to Leonardo da Vinci “ a well- spent day brings happy sleep” – I’m all for happy sleep so Good night Dear Reader – until tomorrow!

fell mainly on Kathleen and Jane today, Dear Reader! I will not lie to you , today has been a tough one ! Our glasses are always half full but today there have been times when they were half empty 🥴🥴- but you know us the bottle is never far away and the glass easily refilled!

Let me start at the beginning of the day ( when I was waking up before going to sleep if you remember 🤪) – we went to Mass at the Cathedral …..

Last time we were here they were cleaning and repairing the alter – it was surrounded by scaffold and we didn’t see any of it . So to see it today in all its splendour was very special .

We set off at about 9.30 to do the 13.3 miles ahead of us – both of us dreading the 2.8 km climb towards the end of this section . No matter, the whole walk was hills and mountains – what goes up has to come down , but some of those hills were killers …. true to the guide book though the 2.8 km climb required preparation ( Woops the 6 P’s had clearly not been considered for this ) it would have stretched Chris Bonnington, I feel sure !

I can’t tell you how many paths like this we have traversed today – and sadly can never do the beautiful smell of eucalyptus and pine justice . As far as I’m aware there is no app for smellyvision on this phone – please take it from me it is stunning!

In previous blogs I have discussed the Health and Safety in Spain – and I suppose it is refreshing to see nothing has changed . Here is clearly a sign suggesting falling rocks yet no requirements for hard hats … or better still , a complete detour to avoid any hazardous material falling on our unprotected heads . However I am pleased to inform you , we passed by uneventfully , and continued on our long and very wet journey!

Bridges have featured strongly in previous blogs from our last Camino – in fact a similar bridge ( Willow Bridge) features on my blog page – so these are two we have seen today both stunning in their own way , the latter we crossed ( in the valley after the mammoth climb )

Now I cannot write this without mentioning the toilet saga ! There are far fewer bars/cafes on this route and therefore toilet facilities. We had been warned that the forest was the place to go ….. however I can report back that there was no need ! When we started off it was quite humid so we sweated excess fluid and fortunately ( even though four hours had passed) we came across a bar …. well loosely described as a bar , it was dark , had 6 tables with chairs in a space where two tables and chairs would have looked cramped , there were birds in a large cage, lots of bird seed in a terrarium and a bacon slicer of all things . Cleaning implements were in every nook and cranny but goodness knows when they had last been used but at least it had a loo … bijoux to say the least , getting in and out was an art… but it served a purpose ! So the shewee and forest have still not met !

So Dear Reader to tomorrow- if either of us are spared that is – Kathleen has done a yoga stretching programme for sore muscles I think I’m going to cheat and take an Ibuprofen 🤪- if I got down on the floor that is where I would remain I feel sure . Tomorrow we walk from Negreira to Maxaricos – shorter than today ( by 0.2 km🙈🙈)

Oh deep joy – what will be doing for the first 11 km ?- going up hills , climbing …. I’ll be returning with a Kardashian backside at this rate !

So until tomorrow Dear Reader we bid you farewell !

Okay … she’s finally flipped ! We shouldn’t have let her go – and now heaven help Kathleen and Galicia…..

Fear not Dear Reader for I have neither flipped nor lost my mind. You should know me by now – I like to be of use and customer service broadcasting is high up on my list of usefulness. Now those six words in the title have meaning ….. ok nothing immediately springs to mind I know ….. but I will tell you the first three signify Stanstead Airport and the latter three, Santiago de Compostella Airport !

I know I’m not known for my technical ability ( and yes the Dearly beloved has had to remind me on a couple of occasions to use the TV control rather than the telephone to change channels – as I’m cursing that the stupid telly doesn’t work 🙈!)However I have got grips with some of my apps and one of them is the what three words app . – if you don’t know about it, download it , it’s extremely useful . Apparent someone with a lot of time on their hands divided the world ( I think ) into tiny squares and allocated three words to each …, now do you see? So if you get lost/ injured anywhere – use the app to find your exact position …. don’t start with phone coverage and the like , you just have to hope you get lost where there is a perfect signal …..

On arrival to handlebar.tread.plights there was no taxi ( he’d got the wrong day apparently!) so following slight delay we arrived at our place of rest very late ( or early in the morning if you prefer !) Hence no post yesterday .

Kathleen woke me up before I’d gone to sleep and I got up before I went to bed – at least that’s how it feels but we’re both ready to tackle the day!

Here are the maps for you to see what we’re doing ….

So we’re off – with a bit of luck, following wind and a big push – I’ll see you all later ( well hopefully we both will!

We walk by faith and not by sight ! That’s the title of our guidebook page …. off we go , blind leading the blind 💕

Christmas, when all through the house …STOP …. wrong night before ……those of us of a certain age, will remember this poem ..”A Visit from St Nicholas” by Clement Clarke Moore ……..anyway I digress terribly ! What I meant was it is the night before finally my lovely friend Kathleen, and I fly to Santiago de Compostella , from whence we embark on the Camino Finistère ( and then onwards to Muxia) on Sunday! ( in case you’re concerned Dear Reader, not all in one day!unlike the film “ The Way”)

We arrive in Muxia on Saturday 10 th September and so you all know where we are going each day, the night before I will post a couple of maps so you can see how difficult the following day’s walk is !!!( or not as the case may be😉!)

I am all packed and ready but I had to wait for vital information – “ oh now what?” I hear you cry …….. where are the hospitals on the way, how far is the the British Embassy , …. not at all , you should know me by now ! How many toilets are there en route and how far apart are they ? OK , I know what you’re thinking …….is that a problem , just squat behind a bush …… Oh that I could ,Dear Reader, but my knees are well and truly b……red ( forgot to give warning at the start of any offensive language – apologies) and my squatting days have long gone!

Yes I know – the infamous shee wee – marvellous…… not – if you’ve read my blogs from the start ( and I mean the real start back in 2019!) you’ll know I had no success whatsoever with it , in fact it proved a disaster ….like pouring Niagara Falls through a straw ! So forget that for any kind of assistance …. However along came …….

I will dwell no longer on the lack of toilets – suffice to say, I will walk with confidence !

So as I finish this , I take on a more serious note . Yesterday we learnt that a much loved television/ radio presenter/ personality , Bill Turnbull , died aged 66 years following a five year battle with prostate cancer . At diagnosis he was told he had advanced disease. In 2019, when I decided to undertake the last 100 k of the Camino Frances, it was because our special friend Alistair , had died of advanced prostate cancer. Like Bill, he was told he had advanced disease at diagnosis .

I walk with my lovely friend , and Alastair’s partner , Kathleen. Camino Romero or The Way of Rosemary ( rosemary for remembrance ) means Walking to Remember … which we will be doing, but I ask you all to raise the awareness of prostate cancer within your family, friends, work colleagues and anyone else who knows you and get checked regularly. I also ask that you push hard to get screening for prostate cancer to become like breast screening in women.

I know what you men are like – “ what, the doctor puts a finger where??? I don’t think so” Well, we have our boobs squeezed between two heavy metal plates – not comfortable either, but it’s a life saver ……so you know what you have to do guys …..

So to finish … remember ….

Until tomorrow…..