So we left Finisterre behind this morning, along with plenty of my childhood memories . Now, many of you will not remember the BBC light service – but as a small child I would be sat down at a quarter to two every week day, to listen to the radio and “ Listen with Mother” ( forgive me, but I don’t remember if she listened with me or not – it’s hardly relevant anyway!) Then just before two o’clock the Shipping Forecast came on – I never quite understood why we would be listening to the shipping forecast – we didn’t have a boat and lived about as far from the sea as was possible in the UK . After that it was Woman’s Hour when I was dispatched upstairs ( whether I was tired or not ) to leave my mother in peace to listen to her programme. None of that is really relevant- other than I’m setting the scene as to why Finisterre figured in my childhood ! I remember the words “ North Utsire blah di blah, South Utsire blah di blah, Finisterre blah di blah and other words like Cromarty, Dogger, German Bight, Biscay ….. etc etc! I didn’t understand what was being said but I remember the names to this day !
Unfortunately, Finisterre no longer figures in our Shipping Forecast as I have just discovered… since 2002 when the Spanish complained it was confusing their forecast, so it is now known as Fitzroy! Another useless piece of information for you !
More or less as soon as we left Finisterre , we started to climb . There were we thinking “ great, only 8.4 miles – as Kathleen would say – a walk in the park !” Well, on the flat maybe, but up and down mountains it feels double ! And not a bar, cafe or even bench to sit on anywhere ! Even my inner Julie Andrew’s failed to inspire …..
The scenery has been outstanding – oh, and it was sunny today – the sun hats had their first airing ! We don’t want to be ungrateful for such beautiful weather, but really we prefer to walk in the cooler ( and dare I say, damper ) weather – not pouring rain obviously , just a little cool, and damp if it has to be !
We have met some lovely people on this Camino – it is said there are 90% less people on this particular route, than on other more popular routes. However we have met some , shall we say , slightly eccentric folk too. Like the 58 year old man who had been walking different Caminos for the past three years – he started before Covid hit, and because you were not allowed out to even exercise in Spain during the pandemic, he walked at night with a head torch . Apparently, he had been stopped in the day on several occasions by the Guardia Civil ! Ah, well I suppose it shows that some folk escape the Holy Company of Souls on the moors between Olveiroa and Finisterre !
Then we met this pair ! We were of course, attracted to the dog but got talking to his owner – and they had been walking from Eastern Europe for the past 17 months ! Both are now in a difficult position as formal documents have expired ! Both Kathleen and I felt sorry for him – but in reality , you cannot just up sticks and wander, without careful consideration of your legal status in the place you end up in – so a bit like our Mr A at Stanstead Airport, we had to toughen up and agree, it was his responsibility and his predicament was of his own making !
We couldn’t resist this photo – his wife and dog were just in front – but here is a real example of good old fashioned farming !
Now after four hours with no stops other than to have a drink of water- we were desperate to sit down , and as coffee time had long gone , have a beer! Finally we reached this village and the first thing we saw was a bar – so in we went , and 2 beers and a large bottle of water later we set off to find Lires , our stop for the night.
Now what I’m going to tell you next may surprise you ( it may not!) but in our defence ( you can see where this is going) , firstly, we were looking for a village by the sea . Where we found ourselves, was nowhere near the sea. Secondly, it is very difficult to know through signage , which village you are in . Thirdly, nobody suck a great big arrow above our heads , pointing out “ You are here!!”
So we did what we’ve done all along – followed the signs!!! and kept on following them . Bearing in mind we’d been on the road for nearly five hours – with ( in our minds) no sign of our destination – and ploughing half way up yet another hill, I receive a message from the DB ….
– and indeed Dear Reader , we had !!!
Now , praise where praise is due , if the DB hadn’t been following my pedometer app and alerted us , eventually I think we might both have sat rocking in the middle of the road in distress and may have still been there now! Now though of course, the DB is vying for the post of Chief Trusted Navigator – unfortunately though the TN on the ground here remains in post but we do at least feel safe in the knowledge that we are being watched over from afar ( in fairness all we have to do tomorrow is follow the signs – they all lead to Muxia)
The TN has two roles anyway because she is also my PTP ( personal trusted podiatrist) and after five days of mountaineering she has had to tend to the toes of one foot – unfortunately a new pair of walking boots are required , but this pair at least will see me home !!!
So tomorrow is our last day ……and yes, you’ve guessed it . They’ve saved the best till last!!!!!
Good night Dear Reader! I leave you with following inspirational quote from our guide book about tomorrow’s walk ….
Regret for the things we did can be tempered by time . It is regret for the things that we did not do that is inconsolable .
Camino Romero 