Saturday 28 th September

Before I continue I must correct myself ( yes, even sixty somethings get things wrong ….and admit to it!) My son Joe suggested today we’d been time travelling – the very thought! However he assured me I had put the date yesterday as 27 th November- who am I to dispute it? Well I can assure you yesterday was September for us as it was for you! I stand corrected!!!

Our last evening was spent chilling in luxury sofas in the lounge bar of the Parador De Los Reís Católicos- and yes you’ve guessed it , with a bottle of Albariño!!! We were reminiscing over our Camino.

As we were chatting a couple came in and greeted us with the customary “Bon Camino” and as happens, and has happened all the way, we got chatting . Now both Kathleen and I have survived the Camino with no joint problems nor blisters because we prepared well, bought good socks which are as vital as your boots/shoes, and you all know that we wore our boots in well. We have also kept very quiet about our professions, but in fact , haven’t needed to call on our own expertise! However when we started talking to this couple – Richard and Patricia from San Francisco- the truth came out. They confirmed that neither of them had had any problems with blisters or joint problems, as he was a Podiatrist and she was a nurse! At this point, we confessed that Kathleen wasn’t a butchers shop assistant, and I wasn’t a doctors receptionist! Those of you who know us will be aware that Kathleen is a podiatrist and I’m a physiotherapist! Let me assure you that had we come across anyone in real difficulty on the Camino, we would have offered to help. It has to be said that we saw many people struggle with blisters – but it was down to inappropriate footwear ( socks and shoes). We stopped at a post office to get our last pilgrim passport stamp, and even they sold Compede, so great is the problem!!!

Anyway it transpires that Richard and Patricia had done the whole Camino in two stages – the first from St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos last year, and then just completed the remainder ie Burgos to Santiago! Not content with their achievement, they were having a days rest before walking the Camino Finisterre , a journey of 87 km!!

So after we had said goodnight we went up to our room and to bed. As we made our way out of the main hotel to our room, Kathleen stopped and said “ There’s a rat” I was minded to say “ No , it’s a Siberian hamster” but it was indeed a rat, no mistaking it, and I guess living in luxury!!!

We had a very lovely room with a bathroom ( true to the word, and for the first time this trip, we had a bath!)

Every time I sat on my bed ( right hand side), the headboard rattled. This was of slight concern – last time I slept in a bed with the headboard on the wall, was with the Dearly Beloved in Blackpool . I don’t know how it happened ( and no I really don’t !) – we were sound asleep and rudely awakened with the entire board falling off the wall and landing on us ! Let me just say it was a difficult one to explain to the young lady at reception!

Anyway I digress ( okay, again!), but Kathleen and I were shattered so went to sleep very quickly. Now at some point in the night I must have turned over and the confounded head board rattled as I expected – but then kept on rattling even though I was completely still. I admit I was slightly spooked wondering if we had a supernatural being with us – after all the Parador had been a pilgrim hospital from 1499 – but eventually I built up courage, pushed the board back onto the wall hoping it would stay firmly in place, and went back to sleep !!

Breakfast at the Parador was a spread and a half – with everything from coffee, tea, cereal and fruit to eggs, bacon and sausage, bread, cakes and pastries , broccoli ( you read correctly ) and Cava! Now you may think that having kept up with this blog, Cava would be on our table! No, I’m afraid it was too early for either a glass of sparkly or cold broccoli( despite us both being five a day conscious- we have our limits!!!)

We decided to go out into the square to absorb the atmosphere- there were pilgrims arriving by foot or bicycle, groups of pilgrims relaxing on the floor having arrived earlier in the day and their euphoria was tangible. Of course in amongst them were the groups of tourists on their guided tours! The sun was shining so we too sat on the floor with the other pilgrims ( yes I got down too , hoping desperately that no one would pay attention to the reverse action!!)

I’ve touched before on reasons for taking on a pilgrimage to Santiago- regardless of your starting point. When we were sat having lunch on Friday we chatted to two girls on the next table. They were addicted to the principle of pilgrimage to Santiago and had just completed their third one – part of the Camino del Norte. We didn’t disclose the reasons for taking on our challenge but one of the girls told us of someone she had met, doing their Camino on a bicycle. The route is mountainous so tricky either way but moreso on a bike, and when she asked why he’d chosen the tough way, he told her that he’d just been diagnosed with Stage 4 cancer and didn’t have time to do it walking. There are many more stories like that ( forgot tissue warning sorry) – and one of our resolutions as a result of our Camino is never to judge anyone. It is so important to listen to, and really hear, a person’s story before making any judgement .

So our last act of pilgrimage was to attend Mass at 12 midday. Normally this is held in the Cathedral but great restoration work is taking place ( we thought we might go earlier to “ hug the Apostle”) but on Friday the queues resembled those for any scary rollercoaster, so we agreed to wait till our next visit!

Now as any self respecting citizen will know – if there is a popular Mass at 12 midday – it is prudent to arrive in good time to secure a seat, which we duly did.

Mass is a very personal and reverend occasion and I have no intention of going into any detail of the service , apart from telling you it was beautiful, there was the most graceful young nun with the voice of an angel, and the choir was formed from a group of young people with only a guitar as their musical accompaniment.

However I am compelled to tell you about some of our fellow human beings. I have alluded to the fact that we were in our seats in good time. We were near the front in a pew with seven of us – one, an elderly gentleman knelt reverently in prayer.

Then, a cruise ship tour arrived. Everyone coming to the front, looking for a seat and realising probably they were out of luck. Then, unbelievably, one of them started to make their way to sit in our pew, in the space left by said praying gentleman ! I know the kneeler was a little way in front of the seat , but really? – I mean what are people thinking!

Anyway having suggested to her the seat was already taken, and pointing out said praying gentleman, she backed away. Mass began and we all stood for prayer. Then a gentleman ( I use the term loosely – we now refer to him as Mr White Gucci Shoes!) made his way down the aisle and stood next to the end of the already full pew in front of ours. As if that wasn’t bad enough, he then started videoing the service on his phone . I was so close to telling him to have a little respect, put his phone away and move , when fortunately for him we all sat down for the sermon and he had to make a hasty retreat around to the side aisle. Our paths never crossed again!

Our Camino journey ended as it had begun- with a taxi ride in the company of the lovely Miguel – a complete gentleman who remembering us from the beginning of the week, was keen to know how our journey had gone!We’re hoping he’ll be the one waiting for us at Santiago Airport on our next trip!

We’re now both home and have completed Day 1 of our post Camino lives ( we’re both ok by the way) and so sadly this will be the last blog for this particular Camino journey. However I have loved this “ blogging “ business and by the comments I’ve received some of you have too. So I’m going to continue , clearly not on a day to day basis, but as and when. I have so much I’d like to share with you, and if my writings make just one of you smile ( at the moment it’ll be just Kathleen because she’s signed up to it!) that’s good enough for me.

I will always blog under caminoromero.com – the name was chosen carefully for this reason. Remembrance ( Romero =rosemary = remembrance) can relate to many things- people( whether with us or not ) and occurrences (whether happy, sad, funny or frustrating) past or present. So go on I will, and see where it takes me – no six figure sum for me, the satisfaction of making someone smile is worth far more to me. Until next time , thank you , you’ve all been wonderful- and to those of you who’ve donated to Cancer Research on my behalf, my heartfelt gratitude.