Wednesday 25 th September

Oh my goodness we are over half way along our Camino journey- and what a journey it is! We haven’t told you about the “ stamps” yet! If a pilgrim starts the walk to Santiago de Compostela anywhere between St Jean Pied de Port in France and Sarria in Galicia, he or she is entitled to receive a “ Compostela” or certificate of completion of pilgrimage. In order to prove your pilgrimage you have a pilgrim passport ( credencial) which must be stamped primarily by your host but also can be stamped in churches, bars ( no problem there then!) or town halls, at least twice a day.

Kathleen and I have done quite well!

This morning, we left Melide at our customary time – 8.30 – after a breakfast of fresh orange juice, coffee, fresh bread, jamón, cheese (croissants yoghurt and churros- the crispy fried sugar coated batter sticks optional extras). Enough to take us to coffee time anyway!

We left through small hamlets on our way to Ribadiso.

Along the way of course we come across our usual mascot in the middle of the road!

Would he or she move- no, that’s why I can’t say whether he was a he or she was a she!

The route took us along beautiful lanes lined with eucalyptus trees – at times the trees forming a tunnel with their branches.

We told you about the “hórreos”- well today we came across a miniature one but for the post and the bread rather than for drying anything!

The lanes took us across streams and here we crossed not by a “normal” bridge but by this bridge made of large stones.

I hope you have gleaned by now that we are forever amazed at the style of house here!

One thing has intrigued us though – the security bars on the doors and windows. I suppose whilst we would like to think all pilgrims are good people, there will of course be some not so good ones and if you have strangers passing close by, every day of the year, a security door and windows are a must.

We’ve walked 17.5 miles today and climbed some steep hills and descended deep valleys ( after all what goes up has to come down!) We have tackled it all with enthusiasm and determination- and find ourselves arriving at the top of a slope ( poles constantly on the go) almost without realising it! We have realised that our levels of fitness have improved and are each so grateful that we seem evenly matched when it comes to our “ mountain goat” activity! We’ll stick to using poles just for walking though, we think our dancing days are over!!!

Our walk today took us from Melide to Ribadiso and up to Atzua and beyond eventually here to Salceda. As we approached Ribadiso which is at the bottom of a valley, we saw this medieval bridge over the Rio Iso which reminded me so much of Willow Bridge in Oxspring which is the first picture in the introductory blog page !

I have to say I had a very close shave on this bridge – as I was about to perch my derrière upon the ledge for a photo, a white van with extended wing mirrors seemed determined to pass over the bridge. A squeeze handle describes it – anyway I’m here to write this blog so again, no harm done!!!!

On our way from the airport to Sarria, Miguel our taxi driver , told us of two good restaurants in Atzua – typically though, as we walked through, it was neither lunchtime nor supper time! However his recommendation wasn’t wasted,as we told an Irish friend who was staying the night there and hopefully he and his friends were able to go.

In case you’re at all concerned, an update on the toilet situation. I can reassure you all good – we are amazed at the quality of the facilities but here it can be spend a “50 or 80” cents if you aren’t a customer of the establishment ( no problem for us two – always free!!!)

We arrived at our night stop at about 4.30 – after all we had three stops- one for coffee , oh, and two cheeky beer stops today!!

It has to be said we walked in here and were both slightly concerned – the menu was ok but not what we’ve become accustomed to! We sat down for lunch thinking what on earth were we going to chose, when fear not, Teresa came out with an offer of fresh sea bass or turbot! Now Kathleen wasn’t convinced about either of these choices, or the scallops offered as a starter! Don’t ask me how but they are what we had!

At the end of the meal we were both extolling the virtues of the chef – simple food, cooked beautifully! This may well top the meals on this journey and needless to say was washed down with a bottle of Albariño!

So the day has ended – a long but unbelievably satisfying, even though at times, an emotional one.

I am sure that many of you this morning will have thought today would be a hard day for us, as it was the furthest distance. Well I can categorically say that it hasn’t been – I’m not saying we weren’t glad to get to our destination you understand nor that we were able to saunter or mince along, but the word “ hard” has taken on a completely different meaning for me. I’ve spent just four lovely fulfilling days walking (and eating,drinking and sleeping) with my special friend Kathleen, and I know that “hard” is how every day is for her now – to get up , face and get through each new day without her soulmate. Any physical challenge you could ever throw at me pales into insignificance.

This walk has been a challenge for both of us in many ways , but not an insurmountable one. It hasn’t been hard- walking with a friend by your side is easy, because all you have to do is put one foot in front of the other. We have about 30 kilometres left and these two intrepid hikers are ready for it!