Monday 23rd September

OK so I’m writing this retrospectively! I spent an hour and a half last evening writing up yesterday’s antics but because of poor WiFi – it’s got lost in the ether!

The two intrépida set off from here at 8.30 inspired by the days walk – only after 500 metres to realise that we had left our much loved walking poles behind in our room ( I wouldn’t have minded but I saw they were next to a bottle of hand sanitiser , so felt sure we couldn’t forget them !) Wrong!- we’ve got the hand sanitiser ……

Much treasured ( though they needed a bit of persuading!) poles in hand, we left this beautiful place behind.

We leave this place by crossing another bridge back onto the Camino path. It is so well signed – and each way mark ( a small obelisk with the Camino shell indented into it) shows not only the direction of travel with an arrow, but also how far you are from Santiago de Compostela ( and not just in round figure kilometres- more like 73.625! )

I think that the shrine where pilgrims could lay stones was kilometres before we joined- but at each way mark and cross there are collections of stones as you can see.

Now yesterday ( ok day before) I posed a question regarding architectural structures in almost every farm yard. The form in which they are presented appeared as if they could be a sort of mausoleum! A big thank you Ray for your information – we had also gleaned this from the Mama in the bar where we ate on Sunday night!

They are in fact called hórreos – and are used for drying/airing maize, potatoes etc. This stands to reason – all are made from “air bricks” ( bricks with holes in, not our concrete affairs) or slatted wood. Mama told us there was a superb example on the way out of town – and impressive it was!

I hope by now you get the gist that both of us feel the architecture in Galicia is not what we would perceive as typically Spanish – this house on our route this morning particularly.

Then true to our Camino we come across this dog in the middle of the road!

We watched as at least fifty pilgrims side stepped around him!

The countryside today is very different to yesterday – there’s a lot more scrubland and sometimes it has felt as if we’re traversing a golf course( the hard core golfers among you will quiver at this comparison- apologies in advance!!) , but rather than folk with poles and rucksacks, I wouldn’t have blinked if I’d met folk with golf bags!!!!

Wherever we go we do see many locals including the typical cattle from this region. They slightly resemble Jersey cows but all have short horns!

After a 15 mile walk yesterday – Kathleen and I were both unhindered by stiff joints , blisters or the like – but as we started to climb a hill any thought of how difficult it might be or our ability to do it , went out of the window. We found ourselves behind a girl with an artificial leg – a most humbling experience. We have been deeply moved by people we have met – it appears that each and every one has a story behind their journeys to this point – just incredible sometimes.

Along the way we have seen sheep, cows, ducks, chickens, many dogs, a few cats – and then we come across this fellow!

Now at this point I must reassure the Dearly Beloved that this was not alive – as he is nervous if I am near such s creature that is alive. This is on account of the fact that when in Madeira I took to such a tortoise, fed him some banana ( which he loved) but then decided to wipe his chin clean of excess banana with my finger! After much, blood, a panicked husband and a sleepless night looking out for signs of rabies, there was no real harm done! Lesson learnt though/ tortoises don’t mind a mucky chin!!!!

Along the Camino there are many crosses – some plain, others more elaborate. We came across this one which we thought was beautiful.

A little further along we could see a farm – again not typically Spanish in our eyes- but modernised though using their rustic stone. This has been a constant throughout- in tiny hamlets, old buildings all appear to have been repaired and modernised, making beautiful homes ( we assume for hamlet residents rather than outsiders)

However as we were about to pass this place we were quite amazed. Those of you with good vision will see the sign that says don’t pass beyond this point dangerous dog. Well believe it or not two Spanish women ventured past the sign – only to rapidly retreat when a large German shepherd bearing wolf sized teeth rushed down the drive towards them. Unbelievably, at the sign he planted his feet almost like a supermarket trolley that ( supposedly) won’t go past he entrance to the car park! Well trained – or what, and hard to believe but intrepid hikers chose not to test the theory again!!!

All the locals have a cheery word – typically “ Buen Camino” – others like to engage in conversation!

He was a delight – and as Kathleen said, his presence gave her ears a break whilst the women with the poles engaged in conversation with him !!!! Ok so I can talk – another reminder to you all, you can turn me off at any time with the press of a button! Kathleen not so lucky at the moment !!!

We arrived early afternoon at our stop for the night – Rectoral de Lesteido- a haven in the middle of nowhere ( well until I realised the poor WiFi would mean I’d have to write the whole blog twice!!!!!)

We had a lovely lunch washed down with a bottle of Albariño-

We then went to have our coffee in a little lounge enclosed with glass and a tranquil view. However Kathleen went to get the WiFi on her phone and happened to meet a lovely mother and daughter from Australia in reception who hadn’t booked a room for the night – and were desperate to find somewhere . We invited them to join us for a glass of wine, whilst the hotel manager went over and above his duty to try and find them somewhere. The kindness of strangers – never take it for granted. He succeeded and after hearing the story behind their Camino, they left . It is true to say that Monday has been a day of reflection for both of us – listening to Ruth and Rachel tell of their nephew/cousin, who had been a peacekeeper in the Australian army in some of the most dangerous war zones, and recently diagnosed with metastatic incurable cancer pushed both of us very far emotionally. Yet it reinforces what we are doing and why we are doing it – and also that the majority of people making the steps on this path , have a story to tell. Whilst it has been challenging, this is not a negative, but most definitely a positive.

As I was writing this yesterday, I had sleeping beauty next to me!

Over and out, and hasta mañana!!!!