I think we need to come clean with you all about last night! After our amazing lunch we had a slight repose ( I say we, Kathleen had a siesta of sorts, and I spent a frustrating hour writing my blog with a non existent Wi Fi signal) Eventually I got rid of all photos and copied and pasted what I’d written to the dearly beloved , so I wouldn’t lose it all again! Then we decided to shower and go down to the bar for a gin and tonic. Well Monolo wasn’t for messing – Larios ( a Spanish gin) and tonic was a dirty word. He would make us a proper gin and tonic! What could we say? All I could think of were the euro signs ( oh and the DB saying “ How much???”) Anyway amid much secrecy, the glasses with ice , gin ( who knows what make) and some freshly burnt ( you heard correctly) lemon peel were placed in front of us – then came the tonic . Normally in a bar you either open your can or are presented with an open bottle. You’ve guessed it , not Manolo- never mind the special opening tab, he pierced the can with an old fashioned can opener, and more or less squeezed the tonic out!!!

The result was indescribable!

Today seems like our legs are winding down – we have supposedly 11.6 miles to do.

We went in for breakfast and requested our customary cafe con leche, and couldn’t believe what Manolo did for us!

A lovely touch from the man with the big heart!

The Camino today again takes us through eucalyptus forests – if only we could bottle the smells along the way- so fresh and beautiful, yet we still can’t put our noses on what the other aromas are! We passed a large rosemary bush, very strong smelling , and there in a word is our Camino!

We also passed a vine with numerous bunches of ripe and ready claret coloured grapes dangling for the branches!

It is very hard for me to describe every detail of how we feel each day. Emotional, yes; content, yes; up and down, definitely. However, our coffee stop (10.30 or thereabouts!) has hitherto been a fairly emotive event! Not today! I went in to buy the coffees ( I have Nana’s purse with our kitty that’s why!)and came out to sit at s table where Kathleen was sitting. Close by was an American girl singing to a ukulele ( why she couldn’t have chosen a guitar, I had to look that up!!😂)

Then in a beautiful soft voice she started to sing – sorry tissue warning!

Sometimes in our lives we all have psin

We all have sorrow

But if we are wise

We know that there’s always tomorrow

Lean on me when you’re not strong

And Ill be your friend

I’ll help you carry on

For it won’t be too long

‘TIL I’m gonna need

Somebody to lean on…,,,

At this point I’m stopping, you know how it goes. and I should have taken notice of my own warning!

So when Kathleen and I had sort of composed ourselves , I felt it was safe to go to use the “Servicios” – and in the queue in front of me is a nun. A lovely lady who we first saw this morning – it appears she was from Brazil and was walking the entire Camino Frances ( 778.5 km). We both ended up in tears in the queue for the loo, agreeing what s journey of the heart we were undertaking.Never has a coffee break been so testing emotionally! Anyway onwards and upwards we go en route to Vilamaior.

We passed beautiful shrines – in the most amazing places, This one was just under the motorway bridge – I had to do a bit of a David Bailey here to keep the metal motorway barrier out of shot!

Shortly after this photo in Pedrouzo, we came across many more “ pilgrims” . This is because many people just make a day’s pilgrimage to Santiago. At times it seemed almost like that day, four days ago , when we started this journey – Piccadilly Circus.!

However one thing we have learnt is tolerance! We ourselves, were intruders on this sacred path starting in Sarria, but we have felt nothing but love and respect from all we have met. So we show the same to these new pilgrims – and regardless “ Bon Camino” is the common language of friendship !

Twelve thirty onwards is beer time! So we found the only bar there was on the Camino, sit down and in I go for the beers!

For those of you not familiar with a television series called “Fawlty Towers” let me explain briefly. It is a comedy series about a hotel run by a curmudgeonly man called Basil Fawlty ( for light relief I recommend it, amongst the staff is a Spanish waiter called Manuel….)

I digress but for the purposes of explanation you understand. The bar tender was a female Basil – I’ve named her Beryl. Our meeting goes something like this :

Did cañas por favor ? (2 draft beers please?)

No tenemos, ( We haven’t got any)

Bueno, dos botellas entonces ( Ok Teo bottles then

Bang ( 2 bottles on bar no translation needed)

Dos vasos por favor ? 2 glasses please)

Hay que esperar ? ( You’ll have to wait)

Hence Beryl Fawlty was born!

As we were sitting enjoying the sun, the nun appeared and I called her over and asked her name “ Maria Dolores de Jesus” she replied. I introduced Kathleen to her and without hesitation, she blessed her there and then. Emotional or what?

We move on ( and upwards again!) and still can’t believe how we get to the top of Ghent hills without really realising we’ve even climbed them. We laugh because so often I’ll say “It’s just round the corner, at the top of the hill. – when we’re still miles away! Anyway we had a few more serious hills to do before arriving at Vilamaior

We got here at about 1.30 pm – a haven in a hamlet!

Our room is on a grassed courtyard- slightly resembles a Butlinesque chalet- but clean and comfortable, and the staff couldn’t be more helpful. We ate lunch ( menu del día 12€) sitting outside our room – salpicón de mariscos, followed by monkfish in a heavenly sauce and then fruit for Kathleen and a lemon cream for me- out of this world. Oh I forgot to say, washed down with a bottle of………( you know us by now, you can finish the sentence!!!! A clue for you – begins with A and ends with o!!!

Now, I’m s firm believer in knowing I’m in the right place by a sign or a name or other familiar object, so when we walked into the grass courtyard a lady with an Australian accent asked us where we were from. The UK we replied. “ Where in the UK” she persisted. “ Sheffield” said Kathleen. Before I had time to reply she said “ I was born between Sheffield and Barnsley! Then emigrated yo Australia forty years ago!”

Well then Kathleen confessed to coming from the North East and I felt obliged to reveal my place of birth. As the DB says – you were truly wafted in from Paradise- those of you of a certain age will remember the Lorraine Chase Martino advert , linked to Luton Airport! Yes,dear reader, I was born in Luton and having confessed this was stunned to find out this lady’s father had lived there! Small world, coincidence or what?!

Now the sun is out , so I’m afraid I’m going to sign off for today. Santiago is tangible now – we have 9 km left of this journey- for that is what it is for us. Not just a walk, much, much more – and tomorrow will be very emotional for every pilgrim entering the square. and no less so got us two intrepid hikers who have learnt so much in such a short time!

As one of the many pilgrims we’ve met on the way said to us-

“ We are not human beings on a spiritual journey.

We are spiritual beings on a human journey”

Remember, a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step – we’re all ordinary people capable of extraordinary things!

Oh my goodness we are over half way along our Camino journey- and what a journey it is! We haven’t told you about the “ stamps” yet! If a pilgrim starts the walk to Santiago de Compostela anywhere between St Jean Pied de Port in France and Sarria in Galicia, he or she is entitled to receive a “ Compostela” or certificate of completion of pilgrimage. In order to prove your pilgrimage you have a pilgrim passport ( credencial) which must be stamped primarily by your host but also can be stamped in churches, bars ( no problem there then!) or town halls, at least twice a day.

Kathleen and I have done quite well!

This morning, we left Melide at our customary time – 8.30 – after a breakfast of fresh orange juice, coffee, fresh bread, jamón, cheese (croissants yoghurt and churros- the crispy fried sugar coated batter sticks optional extras). Enough to take us to coffee time anyway!

We left through small hamlets on our way to Ribadiso.

Along the way of course we come across our usual mascot in the middle of the road!

Would he or she move- no, that’s why I can’t say whether he was a he or she was a she!

The route took us along beautiful lanes lined with eucalyptus trees – at times the trees forming a tunnel with their branches.

We told you about the “hórreos”- well today we came across a miniature one but for the post and the bread rather than for drying anything!

The lanes took us across streams and here we crossed not by a “normal” bridge but by this bridge made of large stones.

I hope you have gleaned by now that we are forever amazed at the style of house here!

One thing has intrigued us though – the security bars on the doors and windows. I suppose whilst we would like to think all pilgrims are good people, there will of course be some not so good ones and if you have strangers passing close by, every day of the year, a security door and windows are a must.

We’ve walked 17.5 miles today and climbed some steep hills and descended deep valleys ( after all what goes up has to come down!) We have tackled it all with enthusiasm and determination- and find ourselves arriving at the top of a slope ( poles constantly on the go) almost without realising it! We have realised that our levels of fitness have improved and are each so grateful that we seem evenly matched when it comes to our “ mountain goat” activity! We’ll stick to using poles just for walking though, we think our dancing days are over!!!

Our walk today took us from Melide to Ribadiso and up to Atzua and beyond eventually here to Salceda. As we approached Ribadiso which is at the bottom of a valley, we saw this medieval bridge over the Rio Iso which reminded me so much of Willow Bridge in Oxspring which is the first picture in the introductory blog page !

I have to say I had a very close shave on this bridge – as I was about to perch my derrière upon the ledge for a photo, a white van with extended wing mirrors seemed determined to pass over the bridge. A squeeze handle describes it – anyway I’m here to write this blog so again, no harm done!!!!

On our way from the airport to Sarria, Miguel our taxi driver , told us of two good restaurants in Atzua – typically though, as we walked through, it was neither lunchtime nor supper time! However his recommendation wasn’t wasted,as we told an Irish friend who was staying the night there and hopefully he and his friends were able to go.

In case you’re at all concerned, an update on the toilet situation. I can reassure you all good – we are amazed at the quality of the facilities but here it can be spend a “50 or 80” cents if you aren’t a customer of the establishment ( no problem for us two – always free!!!)

We arrived at our night stop at about 4.30 – after all we had three stops- one for coffee , oh, and two cheeky beer stops today!!

It has to be said we walked in here and were both slightly concerned – the menu was ok but not what we’ve become accustomed to! We sat down for lunch thinking what on earth were we going to chose, when fear not, Teresa came out with an offer of fresh sea bass or turbot! Now Kathleen wasn’t convinced about either of these choices, or the scallops offered as a starter! Don’t ask me how but they are what we had!

At the end of the meal we were both extolling the virtues of the chef – simple food, cooked beautifully! This may well top the meals on this journey and needless to say was washed down with a bottle of Albariño!

So the day has ended – a long but unbelievably satisfying, even though at times, an emotional one.

I am sure that many of you this morning will have thought today would be a hard day for us, as it was the furthest distance. Well I can categorically say that it hasn’t been – I’m not saying we weren’t glad to get to our destination you understand nor that we were able to saunter or mince along, but the word “ hard” has taken on a completely different meaning for me. I’ve spent just four lovely fulfilling days walking (and eating,drinking and sleeping) with my special friend Kathleen, and I know that “hard” is how every day is for her now – to get up , face and get through each new day without her soulmate. Any physical challenge you could ever throw at me pales into insignificance.

This walk has been a challenge for both of us in many ways , but not an insurmountable one. It hasn’t been hard- walking with a friend by your side is easy, because all you have to do is put one foot in front of the other. We have about 30 kilometres left and these two intrepid hikers are ready for it!

Today we walk from Melide to Salceda! Oh and it’s not quite the 25 th yet – just humour me, it will be very soon!

Each route has a specific saying and today’s is “ Let no one come to you without leaving better and happier” Mother Theresa – but what an example for all of us to follow. If everyone behaved according to those words, the world would be a better place! Certainly on this journey, everyone greets each pilgrim the same way, whether they be fellow pilgrims, locals or bar,café or restaurant owners. It really is a very special place to be.

Firstly I must apologise for a missing photo from yesterday’s blog – it was to say the least a slightly exasperating time re- writing the blog, but glad it has now reached you all!

The missing photo was of the grain airer or hórreo- So 🤞🤞let’s try again!

Two intrepid hikers set off from Lesteido in drizzle this morning!

For those of you wondering how we did a Masters degree so quickly – we both now have a Masters in the Art of Pole Walking . If there was an Olympic sport we’d be entered for it!!!!How we managed to forget the poles yesterday I don’t know – because we have become positively mountain goat like going up hill and down dale- and the poles have become extensions of our arms!!!!

The Camino has also been less busy today – why, we don’t know – maybe some people spend just weekends doing it – anyway regardless it has been lovely.

Today the terrain has been completely different to that of yesterday – gone is the scrubland, to be replaced by eucalyptus , pine and oak woodland interspersed with fields of maize or cattle.

Although I can post photos – you don’t get smelly phone ! The smell of wet earth intermingled with pine and eucalyptus is hard to describe – however in some places the smell of eucalyptus was so strong it was virtually Vick on trees ( one way you could share today’s experience- rub some vick on your chest!!)We passed farms and through small hamlets and up and down hills – but incredibly quiet and peaceful throughout. Each hamlet has its own little church.

I’m pleased to say that every church we have visited has had candles to actually light. The act of lighting a candle in remembrance is a very personal and emotional thing to do – and I have to say the current trend health and safety preference for instant lighting bulbs doesn’t do it for us. 1€ for 6 candles and “ boom” is a disappointment compared to 1€ for 1 proper candle. The world is a slightly brighter place for are lightings today!

In the church in Palas de Rei , whilst lighting our candles, there was some haunting music playing. Some might say playing a CD in church isn’t appropriate but it was totally in keeping with the mood, and we are now both on the lookout for the CD by Hermana(sister) Glenda which allegedly should be on sale in places along the Camino from now to Santiago !

All in all today has been one of contemplative reflection, mixed with many emotions. I know we are doing this for what many would say are deeply moving reasons so you would expect to feel emotional, but today for us both has been spiritual without a doubt. It is true to say we have both felt Alistair with us – and as we’ve ploughed up the hills, we’ve had his voice saying “ you can look or you can walk- just don’t do both at the same time!!”

Heeding this has delivered us safely to our destination – all bones and ligaments in tact – ready to tackle 16 miles tomorrow!!!

It is true to say, bars and cafes ( and so toilets!!) are plentiful – we tend to walk for two and half hours and stop for coffee, and then a further two and a half hours until we have a much welcome beer!!

We have also seen several lovely bridges, that almost resemble the Willow Bridge on the front page of this Blog! There is one further along that is almost exactly the same – and I’ll be sure to post a photo of it!!

So today’s 13.5 mile walk is nearly complete! We arrived at our hotel – another good place! The owner not only recommended a restaurant for lunch, or just give directions, but also literally took us almost to the door. That epitomises the type of person we are meeting – they couldn’t be more helpful!

So we chose our lunch!!

On the wall was a sign – very true!

OK so I’m writing this retrospectively! I spent an hour and a half last evening writing up yesterday’s antics but because of poor WiFi – it’s got lost in the ether!

The two intrépida set off from here at 8.30 inspired by the days walk – only after 500 metres to realise that we had left our much loved walking poles behind in our room ( I wouldn’t have minded but I saw they were next to a bottle of hand sanitiser , so felt sure we couldn’t forget them !) Wrong!- we’ve got the hand sanitiser ……

Much treasured ( though they needed a bit of persuading!) poles in hand, we left this beautiful place behind.

We leave this place by crossing another bridge back onto the Camino path. It is so well signed – and each way mark ( a small obelisk with the Camino shell indented into it) shows not only the direction of travel with an arrow, but also how far you are from Santiago de Compostela ( and not just in round figure kilometres- more like 73.625! )

I think that the shrine where pilgrims could lay stones was kilometres before we joined- but at each way mark and cross there are collections of stones as you can see.

Now yesterday ( ok day before) I posed a question regarding architectural structures in almost every farm yard. The form in which they are presented appeared as if they could be a sort of mausoleum! A big thank you Ray for your information – we had also gleaned this from the Mama in the bar where we ate on Sunday night!

They are in fact called hórreos – and are used for drying/airing maize, potatoes etc. This stands to reason – all are made from “air bricks” ( bricks with holes in, not our concrete affairs) or slatted wood. Mama told us there was a superb example on the way out of town – and impressive it was!

I hope by now you get the gist that both of us feel the architecture in Galicia is not what we would perceive as typically Spanish – this house on our route this morning particularly.

Then true to our Camino we come across this dog in the middle of the road!

We watched as at least fifty pilgrims side stepped around him!

The countryside today is very different to yesterday – there’s a lot more scrubland and sometimes it has felt as if we’re traversing a golf course( the hard core golfers among you will quiver at this comparison- apologies in advance!!) , but rather than folk with poles and rucksacks, I wouldn’t have blinked if I’d met folk with golf bags!!!!

Wherever we go we do see many locals including the typical cattle from this region. They slightly resemble Jersey cows but all have short horns!

After a 15 mile walk yesterday – Kathleen and I were both unhindered by stiff joints , blisters or the like – but as we started to climb a hill any thought of how difficult it might be or our ability to do it , went out of the window. We found ourselves behind a girl with an artificial leg – a most humbling experience. We have been deeply moved by people we have met – it appears that each and every one has a story behind their journeys to this point – just incredible sometimes.

Along the way we have seen sheep, cows, ducks, chickens, many dogs, a few cats – and then we come across this fellow!

Now at this point I must reassure the Dearly Beloved that this was not alive – as he is nervous if I am near such s creature that is alive. This is on account of the fact that when in Madeira I took to such a tortoise, fed him some banana ( which he loved) but then decided to wipe his chin clean of excess banana with my finger! After much, blood, a panicked husband and a sleepless night looking out for signs of rabies, there was no real harm done! Lesson learnt though/ tortoises don’t mind a mucky chin!!!!

Along the Camino there are many crosses – some plain, others more elaborate. We came across this one which we thought was beautiful.

A little further along we could see a farm – again not typically Spanish in our eyes- but modernised though using their rustic stone. This has been a constant throughout- in tiny hamlets, old buildings all appear to have been repaired and modernised, making beautiful homes ( we assume for hamlet residents rather than outsiders)

However as we were about to pass this place we were quite amazed. Those of you with good vision will see the sign that says don’t pass beyond this point dangerous dog. Well believe it or not two Spanish women ventured past the sign – only to rapidly retreat when a large German shepherd bearing wolf sized teeth rushed down the drive towards them. Unbelievably, at the sign he planted his feet almost like a supermarket trolley that ( supposedly) won’t go past he entrance to the car park! Well trained – or what, and hard to believe but intrepid hikers chose not to test the theory again!!!

All the locals have a cheery word – typically “ Buen Camino” – others like to engage in conversation!

He was a delight – and as Kathleen said, his presence gave her ears a break whilst the women with the poles engaged in conversation with him !!!! Ok so I can talk – another reminder to you all, you can turn me off at any time with the press of a button! Kathleen not so lucky at the moment !!!

We arrived early afternoon at our stop for the night – Rectoral de Lesteido- a haven in the middle of nowhere ( well until I realised the poor WiFi would mean I’d have to write the whole blog twice!!!!!)

We had a lovely lunch washed down with a bottle of Albariño-

We then went to have our coffee in a little lounge enclosed with glass and a tranquil view. However Kathleen went to get the WiFi on her phone and happened to meet a lovely mother and daughter from Australia in reception who hadn’t booked a room for the night – and were desperate to find somewhere . We invited them to join us for a glass of wine, whilst the hotel manager went over and above his duty to try and find them somewhere. The kindness of strangers – never take it for granted. He succeeded and after hearing the story behind their Camino, they left . It is true to say that Monday has been a day of reflection for both of us – listening to Ruth and Rachel tell of their nephew/cousin, who had been a peacekeeper in the Australian army in some of the most dangerous war zones, and recently diagnosed with metastatic incurable cancer pushed both of us very far emotionally. Yet it reinforces what we are doing and why we are doing it – and also that the majority of people making the steps on this path , have a story to tell. Whilst it has been challenging, this is not a negative, but most definitely a positive.

As I was writing this yesterday, I had sleeping beauty next to me!

Over and out, and hasta mañana!!!!

Hi

Its the DB here.

The girls have reached Melide today but due to no WIFI a blog has vanished. Jane will be busy writing now after lunch.

Oops that’s the wrong girlies.

After a good Galician breakfadt

As we left this morning it felt a bit like Piccadilly Circus – the world and his wife seemed to be leaving with us! This is a busy stretch of the Camino because it is the last bit that enables the pilgrim to claim his or her “Credential “ from the Cathedral of Santiago. There were people from all over the world climbing out of Sarria with us but plenty of Spanish too. How we got to the top of the first hill so quickly I’m not sure – but think it could have been something to do with one of our compatriots having his phone on speaker, constantly informing him ( and us by default!)how how fast he was going, how far he had gone and how many calories he’d burnt ……….

We are walking through beautiful countryside – mostly agricultural- along tranquil lanes and on what we would call bridleways. It is what we would both call “comforting” surroundings! The farm buildings are rustic and almost each one has one of these-:

Unfortunately we have no idea what they are – but will endeavour to find out for you all!

We’ve come across dogs lying in the middle of the road, clearly not phased by pilgrims at all !

As we began our descent to Portomarín we came upon a little bar , and took the opportunity to imbibe in a couple of beers( we felt it would have been rude not to!!)

What we have appreciated, is that prices are not more expensive on the Camino – well we don’t think so, and that says a lot for the people of this region. Our two coffees earlier were 1.30€ each and the beers 2€ – so very reasonable!

I must at this point put your minds at rest – no need at all to test my knees in squatting, and said shewee has remained at the bottom of my rucksack ( which I can assure you , is where it will stay!!) – the toilets on route are to the standard of many a London hotel. They must also have heard of my dodgy knees because each one has a grab rail by its side!!!!

The observant amongst you will see that I ( and we) have purchased walking poles – for 8.50€ each they have more than earned their keep today! Neither of us could have done as well as we have today without them.

When you have walked just short of 15 miles there is one sight not totally pleasing to the eye.

However we climbed them all ( and there were more than in this photo!) and arrived in Portomarin

The buildings here seem to be influenced by Belgian or French architecture – they don’t seem typically “Spanish” though beautiful all the same.

So 2.45 and time for lunch – menu del dia or menu of the day 9.50€ in the main square including a beer, starter, main course and coffee! We also had a glass of ( delicious !) white wine (at great expense 1€ a glass!!)

Then off to our stop for the night – a 3* guest house described as “ costly chic” in the guide book – and beautiful! The attention to detail of both places has been spectacular – shower gels, tooth brushes ….

The people here couldn’t be more friendly – it has been an amazing first day, and the weather has been kind to us too!

Anyway over and out – we’re off for tapas and a bottle of that expensive wine!

Despite a late night ( or even early morning- we got into bed at 1.15!!), we are now up, ablutioned, breakfasted and raring to go at 8am on the dot. We’ve already met Manuel serving breakfast so today will be good,and only a 25% chance of rain allegedly

Well not quite! Last in the priority queue though – but aboard and ready for a snooze I think – after a g&t if we stay awake that long !