A confusing title I do admit …. but trust me, read on and you will understand !
I realised in the middle of the night , that there was a lot I hadn’t told you about our first day …so humour me and allow me to keep you up to date 😉😉
Now, you will know that I always try and adhere to the 7 P’s when preparing to do anything …what? You’ve forgotten them ..Okay just this once then ‘ Perfect Precise Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance’ So as we were walking up and up yesterday, we came across a Canadian couple carrying a bum bag ( or for those of you in the USA, a fanny pack though I have no idea where that name came from 🙄🙄) and a litre water bottle . She was clearly struggling with the upward climb and wearing ordinary trainers ( I rely on Kathleen’s skills when it comes to footwear in these cases – and the shoes were totally inappropriate and unsupportive for the walk she was undertaking . This couple had no map or information booklet about the Camino, nor had they booked their first night in Roncesvalles …though had arranged for their luggage to be transported ahead to the Monastery where they hoped to stay the night 🙈🙈When asked by Kathleen why they hadn’t phoned ahead, it transpired they hadn’t brought a mobile phone with them ( they had just retired ,sold their business and home and were living a nomadic lifestyle ) but to be without a phone on a trip like the Camino is madness. We also suspect they hadn’t done much training and like many others thought this Camino was ‘dead easy’ Big mistake !!!
This brings me on to the dangers of the Camino . Now about two months before we started, a 45 year old French man died on day one …and we suspect he fell on the very steep track that we were warned against even attempting. If you remember, yesterday I told you about our trip to the Pilgrim Office ( in fact all for the benefit of you, Dear Reader , in search of wine to recommend!) – where the lady there told us we would reach a Pole, and there we must take a right and not follow the signed route . Well much to our amusement, once we reached the Pole , there were two Swedes 🤣🤣 , who guided us on the new path we had to follow !!
I will admit, prior to this trip I had been worried about safety .. but I can assure anyone thinking about undertaking it , take note of what you are told, walk only on the recognised way, wear appropriate footwear and make sure people know where you are … then you have no worries .
A couple of blogs ago I did inform you that two pilgrims had been gored 🙄 on the route (yes you read correctly ) – and originally I was slightly sceptical as to how this had occurred . Then I read that they had clearly been foolish or worse as it was said they had endeavoured to tickle a bull’s testicles . Yes I know 🙈🙈
However, I have another theory, as on our route , despite walking through areas where cattle roam free , I haven’t seen one single bull….but
Now I suspect these idiots who thought they would be clever and try and tickle a bull’s testicles , weren’t up on their anatomy , they just saw the horns . The cow clearly wouldn’t have been happy at having her udder grabbed …and gave them what for with her horns !!! I’d say go girl ….we were certainly not troubled by the cattle at all because we respected their space!
Amongst other things we saw , was a bearded vulture in flight ( okay so it was soaring up in the stratosphere) ….
These are commonly seen soaring over the Pyrenees ….people in the UK worry about seagulls stealing their ice cream and other food . I was concerned lest one of these carnivorous birds of prey should not only fancy my cheese sandwich but us as well 🙈🙈Anyway it is obvious that we avoided their particularly nasty talons !
Near the top yesterday ( well one of the many tops 😉) we came across a food van ( fortunate for the Canadians too, because they could invest in water and food … he had only brought a bounty bar with him ….can you imagine the mess that would be in the heat after 10 km …don’t bother telling me, thank you 🤨🤨) Anyway on the side of his van, he had written …1 km climb, 5 km flat and 5 km downhill to reach our destination last night ! Well he was being very economical with the truth I’m afraid ….after what seemed to be at least a kilometre things flattened out … but then….
Not long after this we crossed the border into Spain ……
No border control or security guards to bother us … just a good old cattle grid !!!
Once in Spain we still had to climb
So now to today !
However it wasn’t long before the sun came out and we were walking in short sleeves !
Although we had some hills to climb,it was a very pleasant walk through pine and eucalyptus forests and before we knew it , we had covered 3.5 miles without even blinking ! We had trained well for walks like today ….on reflection, obviously our training had helped with yesterday but realistically it would have been very hard to train enough to find yesterday ‘ a piece of cake’ . I think even the fittest person undertaking the Camino Frances would agree that yesterday was tough!
Whilst we climbed a few hills today …we did have to forge a stream or two ….
I was tempted to just walk through the water .. but needs must so …
After 6 miles we stopped at a place called Viskarret …
Anyway all was good until the last 5 km … now if you look back on the map from yesterday , you will see the last descent is marked with a red exclamation mark ❗️ in a red triangle .
It was very slippery in some places …and this went on for several kilometres…totally treacherous….silly shoes would have been a disaster 🙄🙄
So we finally arrive in Zubiri … and find a little bar for our customary beer …
However, I had printed off, and brought with me, our most recent itinerary which had been sent by the company we’re with . I knew that the hotel tonight had been changed from the original …. but realised I had an old copy of the itinerary…okay I know …the 7 P’s , what happened there ? Well fortunately our ‘eyes on the ground’ ( the DB to you and us 😉) had the correct information to hand . The Agotzenea was our destination…a little out of Zubiri , 1.1km to be exact and then some up a steep drive !
We were aware that this was an eco friendly hotel but perhaps not quite how eco friendly 🤪🤪🤪
We booked in, requesting as you do,to reserve a table for dinner …no need, dinner is served in our cabin 🧐 “Can we book it then please?” we ask … “ and can we see the menu ?” “Yes we can book a time …19.30 ? but it is a “ closed” menu 🤔🤔 It transpires it is a vegan menu ( neither of us have a problem with that ) no choice …and cold , and will be delivered to our log cabin at 19.30 …£20 per head !! “Oh please could we have a bottle of white wine with our meal?” ( all for the purposes of research on your behalf you understand Dear Reader !!) “ Of course ..that will be 12 € !” So I’ll let you know how that all turns out tomorrow evening- it will be a vegan wine ( as I write Kathleen is researching what exactly a vegan wine is ..)
Breakfast too will be delivered at 07.00hours. It transpired that this happens to be an eco friendly holistic retreat and hosts groups practicing yoga, meditation etc …no WiFi, TV etc ! It is actually a very calming place to be !
We have had wildlife visit us ..
The inside of the cabin is pleasant enough
Of course we also have a bathroom with their own home made vegan soap and lovely fluffy white towels 🤗🤗😘😘
I know …the title of this blog is “ We always leave the best till last ..” So here it is in all its glory ….
“ And” I hear you say . “ Look closely “ I reply
The young male receptionist accompanied us to our cabin to explain various things. One of which was aspects of this toilet. It is an eco friendly toilet Dear Reader ! “ What does that mean?” That means that Kathleen and I, when passing water, must aim at the small hole in the front 🙄 …we can then press a button to flush the front of the toilet . “Paper? You ask hopefully” …in the bin provided of course !!! By now you must be wondering what on Earth I am going to say next …well the waiting is over and I will not beat about the bush ! Warning to all reading this while eating … finish your food, and then read on …
The back of the toilet is basically a plastic bag ….spot the wood chippings to the right of the toilet ( if you can even call it that) … when we empty our bowels in the morning we must each aim for the back of the toilet and said bag , then covering the contents with wood chippings before the next person 🙈🙈🙈 The mind and other things boggle ….the stress of getting everything in the right place is immense and I’m sure somewhere along the way one of us will get muddled and goodness knows what we do then …anyway enough already !
So to tomorrow – a walk of 20.9 km/13 miles to Pamplona, a beautiful city and the home of Ernest Hemingway and bull running ! What could possibly go wrong ??
Until tomorrow Dear Reader ! Goodnight 😴
Camino Romero 